2026 陆家嘴咖啡节 · 研究篇
LUJIAZUI COFFEE FESTIVAL 2026 · RESEARCH
回到咖啡节Back to the festival

D05 RESEARCH D05 — WHAT PEOPLE CARRY研究编号 D05 — 人所携带之物

What Hands Remember手之所忆

How taste, skill and memory travel with the people who carry coffee from one place to another.味觉、技艺与记忆，如何随着携带咖啡的人一起旅行。

RESEARCH QUESTION研究问题

"How do people carry taste, skills, memories and ways of making coffee from one place to another — and what changes in the carrying?"

"人们如何把关于咖啡的味觉、技艺与记忆，从一个地方带到另一个地方——在携带的过程中，究竟改变了什么？"

Scope — this research follows people, not routes: apprentices, migrants, returning students, competition travelers, grandmothers, baristas. It does not map cities or claim influence between named individuals unless independently documented. It asks what is carried in the body and the hand — gesture, word, tool, ritual — and what happens to those things when the ground beneath them changes.

范围说明——本研究追踪的是人，而非路线：学徒、移民、归国留学生、参赛选手、祖母、咖啡师。除非有独立文献可查证，本研究不对具体人物之间的影响关系下结论，也不绘制城市地图。它关心的是身体与手所携带的东西——手势、词语、工具、仪式——以及当脚下的土地改变时，这些东西会经历什么。

A gesture, a word, a tool, a ritual, a memory.一个手势，一句话，一件工具，一场仪式，一段记忆。

Proportions shift, tools are substituted, meaning is renegotiated under new conditions.比例会变化，工具会被替代，意义会在新的条件下被重新协商。

The felt sense of how it should taste — carried in the body, not the archive.它该有的味道——留在身体里，而不在档案中。

01 WHY IT MATTERS为什么重要

Beans don't make coffee. People do.豆子不会做咖啡，人才会。

Coffee is often told as a story of beans moving — through ports, roasters and brands. But a cup of coffee is a small, repeated performance: a temperature held in the hand, a ratio remembered without a scale, a way of waiting a grandmother taught without explaining why. When people migrate, study abroad, apprentice, compete or return home, they carry this performance with them — and it does not arrive unchanged.

咖啡的故事常被讲成豆子的旅行——经过港口、烘焙商、品牌。但一杯咖啡其实是一场微小而反复的表演：手心记住的温度、没有秤也记得住的比例、祖母不作解释却传下来的等待方式。当人们迁徙、留学、拜师、参赛或返乡时，他们把这场表演一并带走——它绝不会原封不动地抵达。

Understanding how matters, because it reveals coffee not as a tradition owned by one place, but as a living, unevenly powered exchange of knowledge. 理解这一点很重要，因为它让我们看到，咖啡从不是某一地独自拥有的"传统"，而是一种活的、权力并不均等的知识流动。

02 WHAT TRAVELS携带的物件

Six fragile things people carry六种随人迁移的脆弱之物

Scholars of migration and foodways distinguish several kinds of embodied knowledge that move with people, each with a different fragility — from the hardest-to-write-down gesture to the most personal, reconstructive memory.

研究移民与饮食文化的学者，区分出几类会随人迁移的"具身知识"，它们的脆弱程度各不相同——从最难写下来的手势，到最私人、带有重构性质的记忆。

GESTURE手势
WORD词语
TOOL工具
RECIPE配方
HOSPITALITY待客
MEMORY记忆

Gestures survive only through direct demonstration and are the first to drift. Words travel easily but often mistranslate. Tools are visible but get modified when the original is unavailable or expensive. Recipes are re-derived from memory, so proportions shift with new ingredients. Hospitality habits often outlast the drink itself. And memory — the felt sense of "how it should taste" — is personal and reconstructive, not the same as documented history, even when it feels truer to the person who holds it.

手势只能靠示范传递，最容易走样；词语传播容易，却常被误译；工具最看得见，却常在原物缺席或昂贵时被改造；配方多是凭记忆重新推导，比例因新食材而改变；待客习惯常比饮品本身活得更久；而记忆——"它本该是什么味道"——是私人且带有重构性的，即便感觉更真实，也不等于有据可查的历史。

03 FIELD NOTE案例笔记

VERIFIED已确证

Yemen, Sufi houses, and the first documented spread也门、苏非道堂与最早有文献记载的传播

The most solidly documented early chapter of coffee's human movement is not about beans crossing a border, but about a practice crossing a threshold. Historian Ralph Hattox's study of coffeehouses in the medieval Near East traces how Sufi communities in fifteenth- and sixteenth-century Yemen appear to be the earliest documented adopters of coffee as a prepared beverage, using it to stay awake through night prayer — before it spread into secular coffeehouses in Mecca, Cairo, Damascus and Istanbul. What moved first was not a bean but a technique and a reason.

咖啡最早一段有扎实文献支持的人际传播史，讲的并非豆子跨越边境，而是一种"做法"跨越了门槛。历史学家拉尔夫·哈托克斯关于中世纪近东咖啡馆的研究指出，十五、十六世纪也门的苏非团体，是目前有文献记载、最早将咖啡当作调制饮品使用的群体，用以在夜间礼拜时保持清醒——之后这种做法才流传到麦加、开罗、大马士革与伊斯坦布尔的世俗咖啡馆。最先移动的不是豆子，而是一种技艺和一个理由。

Source note资料说明

Ralph S. Hattox, Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East, University of Washington Press, 1985, ch. 2 — uwapress.uw.edu/coffee-and-coffeehouses

04 FIELD NOTE案例笔记

SUPPORTED INTERPRETATION有依据的解读

A substitution under constraint — condensed milk一次因限制而生的替代——炼乳

Vietnamese cà phê sữa đá — coffee poured over sweetened condensed milk and ice — is widely explained as a result of colonial-era conditions: fresh dairy was difficult to produce and preserve in Vietnam's climate and supply chains, so condensed milk was substituted into a coffee habit introduced under French colonial rule. This is a well-supported historical interpretation, not a single verified origin document with a named inventor or date.

越南的炼乳冰咖啡——咖啡直接滴入甜炼乳与冰块——常被解释为殖民时期条件的产物：越南的气候与供应链使新鲜乳制品难以稳定生产保存，于是炼乳被替换进殖民统治时期引入的饮用咖啡习惯之中。这是一种证据充分的历史性解读，而非一份指名道姓、注明年代的确证文献。

Reveal the mechanism展开机制说明

What is verifiable is the mechanism this case illustrates: when an ingredient a recipe depends on is unavailable, the drink survives by substitution — and the substitution itself becomes tradition, taught to the next generation as though it were original.

真正可以确认的是这个案例所说明的机制：当配方所依赖的原料无法获得时，饮品并不会消失，而是通过替代继续存活——而这个替代本身，后来又被当作"本来就是这样"教给了下一代。

Atlas Obscura, Gastro Obscura — "Vietnamese Iced Coffee" — atlasobscura.com/vietnamese-iced-coffee

05 FIELD NOTE案例笔记

VERIFIED + INTERPRETATION确证与解读

Rebuilding the machine — Melbourne's espresso bars重建一台机器——墨尔本的意式咖啡吧

After WWII, large numbers of Italian and Greek immigrants settled in Melbourne, opening espresso bars that reproduced, as closely as local supply allowed, the equipment and social space of a home-country café. Pellegrini's Espresso Bar, opened in 1954 on Bourke Street and still operating, is heritage-recognised in Victoria as an early example. The carried object was not simply "coffee" but an entire social architecture — counter height, service speed, standing rather than sitting, and the machine itself, imported and maintained as expertise migrated with it.

二战后，大量意大利与希腊移民定居墨尔本，开设了在本地供应条件允许范围内尽量还原故乡设备与空间的意式咖啡吧。1954年在Bourke街开业、至今仍营业的Pellegrini's Espresso Bar，被列入维多利亚州遗产名录，是这种形式的早期代表。这里被携带的不只是"咖啡"，而是一整套社交建筑——吧台高度、出品速度、站着而非坐着的身体编排，以及那台被进口、维护、随专业知识一起迁移的机器。

Source note资料说明

Victorian Heritage Database — Pellegrini's Espresso Bar listing — vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au · National Museum of Australia, Defining Moments — espresso arrives in Australia — nma.gov.au/defining-moments

06 FIELD NOTE案例笔记

VERIFIED已确证 + POWER READING+ 权力解读

Teaching the tongue a common word教会舌头一种通用语言——赛事与Q级鉴定

Not all transfer happens through unplanned migration — some is deliberately engineered. The World Barista Championship, run by World Coffee Events under the Specialty Coffee Association's competition structure, and the Q Arabica/Robusta grading system administered by the Coffee Quality Institute, both standardise gesture and vocabulary across borders. This is genuine, documented transfer — and also a case study in power and access: certification costs money, travel and English-language fluency, so the people who grow coffee are least likely to be the ones certified to grade or compete on it internationally.

并非所有知识迁移都发生在计划之外的移民中——有些是被刻意设计出来的。由世界咖啡赛事组织（World Coffee Events）在精品咖啡协会赛事架构下主办的世界咖啡师大赛，以及咖啡品质协会主持的Q级鉴定体系，都让手势与词汇跨境标准化。这是真实、有据可查的知识传播——同时也是一个关于权力与可及性的案例：认证需要金钱、旅行与英语能力，这意味着实际种植咖啡的人，往往最不可能拥有国际鉴定或参赛资格。

Source note资料说明

World Coffee Events — World Barista Championship rules & history — worldcoffeeevents.org/wbc · Coffee Quality Institute — Q Coffee System — coffeeinstitute.org/q-coffee-system

07 FIELD NOTE案例笔记

DOCUMENTED PRACTICE + PERSONAL MEMORY记录的实践与私人记忆

Rebuilding a ceremony far from home — Ethiopian buna在异乡重建一场仪式——埃塞俄比亚咖啡礼

The Ethiopian and Eritrean coffee ceremony — roasting green beans over coals in front of guests, brewing in a clay jebena, serving three rounds while incense burns — is a hospitality ritual, not just a drink, travelling with migrants. Diaspora communities in cities such as Washington, D.C. have documented histories of maintaining the ceremony, adapting its pace and setting to new housing and working hours while treating the sequence and hospitality meaning as non-negotiable.

埃塞俄比亚与厄立特里亚的咖啡礼——当着客人面在炭火上烘豆、用陶壶冲煮、连续奉上三轮、期间焚香——是一种待客仪式，而不只是一杯饮品，随移民一起旅行。像华盛顿特区这样的城市，其侨民社区有据可查地延续着这一仪式，根据新的居住空间与工作时间调整节奏与场景，却把整套顺序与待客意义视为不可协商的核心。

What memory can and can't confirm记忆能确认什么，不能确认什么

It is documented that diaspora communities practise and teach this ceremony abroad. It is a matter of personal, largely undocumented memory exactly how any single family's version has changed generation to generation — that kind of change usually lives in the body of whoever last performed it for a child watching, not in an archive.

侨民社区在海外实践并教授这一仪式，是有据可查的事实；但某一具体家庭的版本在代际之间如何具体改变，多属私人的、基本无文字记录的记忆——这种改变通常活在最后一个为孩子表演过它的人的身体里，而不在档案中。

Smithsonian Folklife Magazine — "Coffee Is Our Bread": the Ethiopian coffee ceremony — folklife.si.edu/magazine · Migration Policy Institute — "Ethiopian Immigrants in the United States" — migrationpolicy.org/article

TRACE THE PROCESS追踪一次转化

What the bean survives before it becomes memory豆子在变成记忆之前，经历了什么

The cherry ripens on the plant in producing regions — the labour of picking is seasonal, physical and, in most global supply chains, the least visible and least compensated stage of the whole journey.

果实在产区的植株上成熟——采摘是季节性的体力劳动，在全球大多数供应链中，也是整趟旅程里最不可见、报酬最微薄的一环。

Dried and hulled, the green bean is the form that actually crosses borders and oceans — stable, storable, and still flavourless until someone applies heat, skill and judgement.

经过干燥去壳的生豆，才是真正跨越国界与海洋的形态——稳定、易储存，却仍然无味，直到有人施以火候、技艺与判断。

Roasting is where trained gesture becomes decisive — timing, sound, smell, judged in seconds, taught mostly by demonstration rather than a written formula.

烘焙是训练出的手感真正起作用的一步——时间、声音、气味，在几秒之间被判断，多半靠示范传授，而非一纸配方。

Brewed, the cup is where all the carried knowledge — gesture, word, tool, memory — finally becomes perceptible to someone else, for a moment, before it disappears.

冲煮成杯，是所有被携带的知识——手势、词语、工具、记忆——终于让另一个人可以感知到的那一刻，短暂存在，随即消散。

08 COUNTERPOINTS反面与局限

What does not travel那些没能被带走的东西

A fair account must also register what is lost, appropriated, or made invisible along the way.

一份诚实的记录，也必须写下这一路上被丢失、被挪用或被抹去的部分。

Labour asymmetry劳动的不对等

The hands most associated with "coffee culture" — baristas, roasters, judges — are rarely the same hands that pick the cherries. The seasonal, physical, often poorly compensated agricultural labour that makes any of this possible receives comparatively little of the storytelling or the profit, a pattern documented repeatedly in coffee economics research.

公众想象中与"咖啡文化"相连的那双手——咖啡师、烘焙师、评审——很少是采摘咖啡樱桃的那双手。真正让这一切成为可能的季节性农业劳动，报酬往往微薄，在故事与利润中所占份额也相对很小，这一模式在咖啡经济研究中被反复记录。

Appropriation vs. exchange挪用与交流的分野

When a ritual or term crosses from a producing community into a consuming-market menu — a ceremonial word turned into a drink name, a technique borrowed without its social meaning — the difference between respectful adaptation and extraction usually turns on whether credit, consent and benefit flow back to the originating community. This is inconsistent and hard to audit at scale.

当一种仪式或词语从生产者社区流入消费市场的菜单——一个仪式性的词变成了饮品名字，一种技法被借用却剥离了原有的社会意义——尊重性的改编与掠夺性的提取之间的区别，通常取决于署名、同意与利益是否回流原社区，而这一点在大规模场景下往往并不一致，也很难核实。

Irreversible loss不可逆的遗失

Because so much of this knowledge is gestural and oral, some version of "how it was actually done" simply does not survive a generation with no one left to demonstrate it. Documented history can describe that a practice existed, but cannot always recover exactly how it felt or moved. This research treats that gap as an open uncertainty, not an invitation to invent detail.

由于这类知识大多依靠手势与口传，一旦没有人再示范，"它本来到底是怎么做的"某个版本就可能真的无法留存。有据可查的历史可以描述某种做法曾经存在，却未必总能还原它当时具体的动作与感觉。本研究将这个缺口标记为一处开放的不确定性，而不是用编造的细节去填补它。

09 SYNTHESIS综合

Verified, interpreted, uncertain确证、解读与存疑

SEALED BY SOURCE有明确文献佐证
  • Sufi communities in Yemen are the earliest documented adopters of coffee as a prepared devotional drink (Hattox).
  • 也门的苏非团体是有文献记载、最早将咖啡当作调制饮品使用的群体（哈托克斯）。
  • UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage framework recognises coffee-related practices — e.g. Turkish coffee culture and tradition, and Arabic coffee as a symbol of generosity — as living heritage carried through preparation and hospitality, not the bean alone.
  • 联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产名录，承认与咖啡相关的实践——如土耳其咖啡文化与传统、作为待客象征的阿拉伯咖啡——是通过冲煮与待客延续的活态遗产，而非仅关乎豆子本身。
  • Formal international competition and certification bodies (World Coffee Events / SCA, CQI's Q system) exist and function as documented mechanisms for standardising technique and vocabulary.
  • 正式的国际赛事与认证机构（世界咖啡赛事组织/精品咖啡协会、咖啡品质协会的Q级体系）确实存在，是让技艺与词汇标准化的有据可查的机制。
READ WITH CARE审慎解读
  • Vietnam's condensed-milk coffee is best explained, though not pinned to one document or date, as a substitution shaped by colonial-era dairy scarcity.
  • 越南的炼乳咖啡，最合理的解释（但无法精确锁定单一文献或年代）是殖民时期乳品短缺所致的替代。
  • Standardised certification systems tend to privilege those with capital, travel access and English fluency — a structural pattern, not a single proven statistic.
  • 标准化认证体系往往更利于拥有资本、旅行能力与英语能力的人——这是一种结构性模式，而非某个已证实的具体统计数字。
NOT RESOLVED尚无定论
  • Exactly how any single family's gestures and recipes changed across specific generations is, in almost all cases, undocumented personal memory — this research does not claim to recover it.
  • 某一具体家庭的手势与配方在代际之间究竟如何改变，几乎在所有情形下都属于无文字记录的私人记忆——本研究不声称能够还原它。
  • The precise boundary between respectful adaptation and appropriation in any specific commercial product cannot be judged in general; it requires case-by-case attention this Station does not attempt to adjudicate.
  • 任何具体商业产品中，尊重性改编与文化挪用之间的确切边界，无法一概而论，需要逐案审视——本站不试图作出裁定。

METHODOLOGY方法与来源

How claims are graded如何分级判断

This Station distinguishes verified fact (independently documented in academic, institutional or primary sources), supported interpretation (a reasonable, evidence-consistent reading where a single definitive source is unavailable), and open uncertainty (questions this research does not claim to resolve). No named individual's biography, migration route or private history is asserted unless independently documented and cited; no statistic, quotation or producer detail has been invented. Leads from general project references were treated only as starting points and checked against academic and institutional sources before use. Wikipedia, where consulted, was used only to locate credible sources and does not appear as a citation here.

本研究区分三个层级：已确证的事实（有独立的学术、机构或一手资料支持）、有依据的解读（在缺乏单一确定来源时，与现有证据相符的合理判断），以及开放的不确定性（本研究不声称已解决的问题）。除非有独立文献可查证并注明出处，本研究不对任何具名个人的生平、迁徙路线或私人历史作出断言；不编造任何统计数字、引语或生产者细节。项目参考资料中的线索，仅作为起点使用，并在采用前与学术及机构来源交叉核实。若曾参考维基百科，也仅用于查找可信来源，本文不会将其作为最终引用出处。

Bibliography参考资料