Mujadara
扁豆焦洋葱饭
Levant · for one · ~35 minutes
名字 Arabic for "pockmarked"
مجدرة — 阿拉伯语"麻脸"
最早的食谱 13th-c. Baghdad cookbook
十三世纪巴格达菜谱
本质 peasant food, still the best kind
穷人的饭,最好吃
变体 bulgur → mujadara hamra
碾碎麦版:姆贾达拉·哈姆拉
The name means "pockmarked" — the lentils scattered through the white rice look exactly like that, small dark dents in a pale face. It was poor food for centuries across the Levant, cheap enough to cost almost nothing and filling enough to matter. It still is, and it still does. 这道菜的名字意为"麻脸"——扁豆散落在白米饭里,正像脸上细小的坑洞。几百年来这是黎凡特地区的穷人饭,便宜,管饱,至今如此。
Ingredients 食材 — serves one
75 g green or brown lentils
75克绿扁豆或棕扁豆
75 g long-grain white rice
75克长粒白米
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
2个中等洋葱,切薄片
3–4 tbsp olive oil
3–4大勺橄榄油
½ tsp cumin, ½ tsp allspice
½茶勺孜然,½茶勺多香果粉
salt, black pepper
盐,黑胡椒
~400 ml water
约400毫升水
yoghurt or labneh + lemon, to serve
配酸奶或拉布内,加柠檬
How to cook 做法
Start with the onions — they take the longest and they are the whole point. Pour the olive oil into a heavy pan over medium heat, add all the sliced onion with a pinch of salt, and leave them to colour slowly for about 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes. They should go from translucent to golden to a deep chestnut brown with crisped edges. Take them to the edge of what looks right: just past golden, just before the smell turns sharp. Pull them off heat a shade early — they keep cooking in the pan. Scoop out half and set aside for the top.
从洋葱开始——最费时间,也是这道菜的灵魂。中火,橄榄油入厚底锅,下全部洋葱片,撒一撮盐,不急,慢慢上色,约20分钟,中间搅几次。从透明到金黄,再到深栗色、边缘微脆。颜色要走到"刚好过了黄金点"但"还没变苦"的那一步——闻到焦香而不是焦糊,就离火。早一点比晚一点好,锅还是热的。舀出一半备用,铺在成品上面。
Rinse the lentils and add them to the pan with the remaining onions. Cover with around 400 ml of water and bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes — the lentils should be almost done but still have a little bite. The reason they go in before the rice is simply time: rice cooks faster, and if you add them together, by the time the rice is right the lentils are mush.
扁豆冲洗干净,倒入留着洋葱的锅里。加约400毫升水,大火烧开,转小火,不盖锅盖,煮10分钟——扁豆应该快熟透但还带一点咬劲。先放扁豆是因为它需要更长时间:若和米同时下锅,米熟了扁豆也烂了。
Stir in the cumin and allspice, taste for salt, then add the rinsed rice. The water level should sit about 1 cm above the surface of the lentils and rice combined — add a splash more if needed, but don't drown it. Bring back to a gentle boil, then clamp on a lid, drop the heat to its lowest, and leave for 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Then take it off the heat entirely and let it steam, still lidded, for another 5 minutes.
加孜然和多香果粉,尝盐,再下冲洗好的米。水面应高出扁豆和米约1厘米——不够就加一点,但不要太多。重新烧开,盖上锅盖,调至最小火,15分钟,不要掀盖。然后关火,继续焖5分钟。
Pile the reserved caramelised onions on top. Serve with a spoonful of cold yoghurt or labneh alongside, and a wedge of lemon to squeeze over everything at the table. The cold against the warm, the sour against the sweet onion — that contrast is the whole meal.
把预留的焦洋葱铺在饭上。旁边放一勺冰凉的酸奶或拉布内,再来一瓣柠檬,上桌后自己挤。冷与热,酸与甜——这个对比就是整道菜的灵魂。
A cook's notes 厨房笔记
The onions: go as dark as you dare, short of bitter. The line is smell — caramel is fine, acrid means stop immediately. Most people stop too early and wonder why it tastes flat.
洋葱要炒到你敢走到的最深处,但不过苦。靠气味判断:焦糖香可以,刺鼻就该停了。大多数人停得太早,然后觉得味道平。
If the finished dish is wet and claggy, next time use slightly less water. Meanwhile: uncover the pan and put it on the lowest heat for two or three minutes to drive off excess moisture. Do not stir — let the bottom form a light crust if it wants to. The crust is a bonus.
如果成品偏湿发黏,下次减少一点水量。补救:开盖,最小火,焖两三分钟收水,不要搅拌——底部若结了薄锅巴,那是惊喜。
The lentils should hold their shape in the finished bowl. If yours always turn to soup, try soaking them for 30 minutes first — they'll absorb water more evenly and cook more predictably.
成品里的扁豆应该保持形状。若总是烂成糊,试试提前泡30分钟——吸水更均匀,火候更好把握。
Eight hundred years of this: lentils and rice and dark sweet onions, made for one person on a weekday evening. Some recipes survive because they're complicated. This one survived because it's true.
八百年了,就是这个:扁豆、米饭、深色甜洋葱,一个人在平常的傍晚做的。有些菜谱因为复杂而流传,这道是因为它真实。